Magelang

Posted on 29. Nov, 2004 by Brandon in Indonesia

Chicken soup for the skeptics soul.

The days spent in this small town were some of the most humbling and thought-provoking experiences Ive ever had. While living in Indonesia these past years, Ive been witness to an incredible variety of life, yet somehow these travels were, in many ways more moving.

This was not a tourist town or a widely traveled path for white guys evident each time eyes were met with mine. People were brimming with warmth as if the sun beaten roads poured forth the excess heat through smiles and greetings.

I spent time around the neighborhoods, meandering and becoming lost in the maze of housing and homes. I speak of them separately because some of the dwellings were not more than some metal siding and logs carefully balanced together, creating a modest shelter. Other homes were not much larger, and yet managed to maintain a level of sanity unheard of in many places. Something I love about the Indonesians is their attention to cleanliness. Ive spoken of this before, but not on a level regarding their living quarters. No matter what their financial level is, often people keep their homes very clean and simple. Floors are cleaned and swept every morning, clothes are washed often, plants watered, and there remains a sense of pride in whatever valuables they may have.

I came across children playing in the streets, kicking around dusty soccer balls, chasing each other, and otherwise enjoying the chill moving in as the sun said goodnight. Evening is a magical time here before the sunset call to prayer, a playful nature is squeezed out of even the eldest individuals.

During my wandering, I found a rough cemetery set into a pleasant hillside. Many of the graves were marked with some kind of wording, but a few were simply raised mounds of earth no sign of a headstone at all. Ive never been at peace around gravesites; the gravity of my thoughts becomes unsettling so I soon moved on.

Crossing a deep chasm over what appeared to have been a bridge at one time, I found myself at the peak of a valley overflowing with fields of rice – sawah. One thing Ive never grown tired of is the beauty of the rice fields in Java. Captivating does not even begin to describe the feeling one has when looking out over a flood of green, with towering volcanoes as a dramatic backdrop. Ive decided that if I were to live in poverty on this island, I would much rather live in the country, working the earth, than in the heat of the sprawling cities.

There were no temples, no galleries, and nothing of interest to anyone following a guidebook. It was not a wealthy area, and the photos of the hotel I stayed in would send shivers through most of you.

What I did find was a sublime sense of peace and a taste of what life in Java truly might be like. Sometimes its good to walk a mile in someone elses shoes.

View Comments

Monika

29. Nov, 2004

Wow Brandon, I’m officially a fan. These photos (especially the ones with the kids and the elderly ladies) very much captured my heart. Although your scenic (or non-portrait) photos are obviously excellent, I have to admit that these ones left a deeper meaning for me. Maybe it’s the humanity side that gives these pictures more edge.

I’m wondering though, because I have yet to master the art of photographing strangers, how did you ask their permission? And was it hard ‘working’ with them (if you pardon the expression)?

Your writing for this entry is mesmerizing too, if I may add. By the way, I’m not too fond of cemeteries too (especially those in Indonesia, for some reasons).

slurpee

30. Nov, 2004

amazing collection, Brandon! i’m always floored by your pictures, as well as the words you’ve attached to them.

natalie

30. Nov, 2004

i really think this is your best series yet. 5 and 9 are my favorites.

and i second monika’s question re: asking permission, because i am still too shy to photograph anyone except my kids at school.

Brandon

30. Nov, 2004

Monika – glad to have you aboard! They captured my heart as well. I tried to convey that through my writing, but I definitely feel as if my writing skills have taken a serious dive into the toilet. Speaking Indonesian through 20% of the day has hampered my vocabulary significantly.

I also tend to write these at 10pm as my mind is beginning to shut down. Maybe I’d be better off writing in Starbucks loaded up on mocha.

I’ll save your question about taking people photos for a post coming soon – I’ve had a few other people email me with similar questions. I’d prefer to answer them all at once if you don’t mind.

Brandon

30. Nov, 2004

Slurpee – thanks a bunch. I wonder what the native Indonesian speakers reading this think of the term “floored”. I’ve linked to you as well, as I really do admire the time you take to find new talent on flickr.com.

Brandon

30. Nov, 2004

Natalie – wow, my best yet? Thanks! This was a bit of a random selection of pictures, but I really did want to include the old women. I’ll include your question with Monika’s if you don’t mind. – answered in a post rather than on here.

Are you finished with your site yet?

Kryn

30. Nov, 2004

Hi, nice pics! As a suggestion, the portraits of the kids and the old ladies may have more impact if you do them in B&W.

I had a question on your old weblog. On the right column you show many pics attached to eachother in a random format. How can you do that? I’d like to do something similar with my weblog.
I spotted what you did with Flickr in this (new) website, but I don’t like that format very much.
Thanks!

Houser

30. Nov, 2004

You grow stronger and stronger with each post my friend. Looks like you may have tapped into a source of creativity for you – stick with it! I can honestly say that I’ve not once thought about travelling to Indonesia. Heck, before your site, I would never have known a place called Java existed outsite the evil empire of Starbucks. But you really help to open the world to others through your posts. Keep it up, bud. Someday I may travel there.

HiMY SYeD

01. Dec, 2004

Brandon,

You mention the magical time before sunset prayers, and I hadda do a doubletake, as I thought the Kaaba, the direction of those prayers was captured in your photograph!

‘Below The Fence’

The black wooden window panes disected by the clothesline to the left of the child, transports one out of three people on this planet who may view this photo to Makkah.

It is stunning, magical and filled with Providence.

Andrea

01. Dec, 2004

The older ladies look so fragile but yet so peaceful. Almost like they know a secret the rest of us do not.

Riza

02. Dec, 2004

Did u get any troubles when u were taking these pics, because I bet usually in a non-tourist area (or in an area where it’s rare visited by foreigners) usually people stares at u or kids follow u wherever u go.

Brandon

02. Dec, 2004

Kryn – I’ve posted the black and white versions on flickr.com. I may post them on here later.

Regarding the posting of photos on the side column from my blogspot site – do you know html? If so, I basically put them in a table and had each picture on its own row. It’s a very primative way of doing it – but hey, you liked it! If you need more specific help, please email me.

Brandon

02. Dec, 2004

Houser – damn nice comment! I appreciate it.

I have indeed found a source of inspiration from knowing that my time in Indonesia may be limited. I’ve also found that once I venture into Java – rather than Jakarta, my creative side kicks in. It’s easy to become stagnant in any one place after too long.

Yeah, I know what you mean about not knowing Indonesia. Most of my friends back home have no idea where I am. My uncle thought Indonesia was part of Thailand. They think Java is either only a programming language or a coffee bean as well. We Americans aren’t exposed to much history or geography related to Asia other than China and Japan while in school. This is obvious from my earlier posts in 2002 – so naive.

If you ever find your way over here – we’ll take a trip around.

Brandon

02. Dec, 2004

HiMy SYeD – I didn’t quite catch all that you mean – but I thank you. Did anyone else get it?

Anna

13. Dec, 2004

These are really beautiful and raw photos. Thanks for sharing! Keep up the good work.

Holly

28. Dec, 2004

Thank you Brandon for putting my mind at rest about the status of Java after the tsunami. I sponsor a little girl from your island and have been very concerned for her and her family’s safety. The images from all over the world are overwhelming and heartbreaking. Thank you for your reality and sensitivity.